Junko Tabei

Junko Tabei (田部井 淳子) was a Japanese mountaineer, author, and teacher.

She was the first woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest and first woman to ascend the Seven Summits, climbing the highest peak on every continent.

Tabei wrote seven books, organized environmental projects to clean up rubbish left behind by climbers on Everest, and led annual climbs up Mount Fuji for youth affected by the Great East Japan Earthquake.

An astronomer named asteroid 6897 Tabei after her and in 2019, a mountain range on Pluto was named Tabei Montes in her honour.

Junko Ishibashi was born on 22 September 1939 in Miharu, Fukushima, the fifth daughter of seven children.

Her father was a printer.

She was considered a frail child, but nevertheless she began mountain climbing at the age of ten, going on a class climbing trip to Mount Nasu.

She enjoyed the non-competitive nature of the sport and the striking natural landscapes that came into view upon reaching the top of the mountain.

Although she was interested in doing more climbing, her family did not have enough money for such an expensive hobby, and Ishibashi made only a few climbs during her high school years.

They used the same route to ascend the mountain that Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay had taken in 1953, and six sherpa guides assisted the team for the full span of the expedition.

On 4 May, the team was camping at 6,300 m when an avalanche struck their camp.

Tabei and four of her fellow climbers were buried under the snow.

From 1958 to 1962, Ishibashi studied English and American literature at Showa Women's University.

She initially planned on a career as a teacher.

After graduation, she returned to her earlier passion for climbing by joining a number of men's climbing clubs.

While some men welcomed her as a fellow climber, others questioned her motives for pursuing a typically male-dominated sport.

Soon, Ishibashi had climbed all the major mountains in Japan, including Mount Fuji.

When she was 27, Ishibashi married Masanobu Tabei, a mountaineer she had met during a climbing excursion on Mount Tanigawa.

The couple eventually had two children: a daughter, Noriko, and a son, Shinya.

In 1969, Junko Tabei established the Joshi-Tohan Club (Women's Mountaineering Club) for women only.

The club's slogan was "Let's go on an overseas expedition by ourselves", and the group was the first of its kind in Japan.

Tabei later stated that she founded the club as a result of how she was treated by male mountaineers of the time; some men, for example, refused to climb with her, while others thought she was only interested in climbing as a way to find a husband.

Tabei helped fund her climbing activities by working as an editor for the Journal of the Physical Society of Japan.

The Joshi-Tohan Club embarked on their first expedition in 1970, climbing the Nepalese mountain Annapurna III.

They successfully reached the summit using a new route on the south side, achieving the first female and first Japanese ascent of the mountain.

Tabei and one other member, Hiroko Hirakawa, were chosen to complete the final climb to the top, accompanied by two sherpa guides.

The climbers had brought a camera, but the temperature was so cold that the camera's film cracked.

From her experience in the Annapurna III ascent, Tabei realized that she and the other Japanese women had sometimes struggled to reconcile traditional Japanese values of quiet strength with the more immediate practical needs of mountaineering.

Many Joshi-Tohan Club members were initially reluctant to admit they did not know something or needed assistance, preferring to keep a stoic silence, but mountain climbing forced the women to acknowledge their personal limits and accept help from each other.

After Tabei and Hirakawa successfully summited Annapurna III on 19 May 1970, the Joshi-Tohan Club decided to tackle Mount Everest.

The club created a team known as the Japanese Women's Everest Expedition (JWEE), led by Eiko Hisano, which would attempt to summit Mount Everest.

JWEE contained 15 members, most of them working women who came from a range of professions.

Two of the women, including Tabei, were mothers.

They applied for a climbing permit for Everest in 1971, but had to wait four years to receive a place in the formal climbing schedule.

Tabei helped to find sponsors for the expedition, although she was frequently told that the women "should be raising children instead".

She was able to obtain last-minute funding from the Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper and Nippon Television, but each group member still needed to pay 1.5 million yen (US$5,000).

Tabei taught piano lessons to help raise the necessary funds.

To save money, Tabei made much of her own equipment from scratch, creating waterproof gloves out of the cover of her car and sewing trousers from old curtains.

After a long training period, the team made the expedition in May 1975.

The group attracted much media attention with their plans, and the 15 women were initially accompanied by journalists and a television camera crew as they began their climb.