Catherine Destivelle

Catherine Destivelle (born 24 July 1960) is a French rock climber and mountaineer who is considered one of the greatest and most important female climbers in the history of the sport.

By 1976, aged 16, she was spending her summer in the Verdon Gorge, with climbing-partner, Pierre Richard.

In that year, Destiville made alpine ascents of the Cousy-Desmaison Route (ED) on the north face of l'Olan, and the Devies-Gervasutti Route (TD+), on the northwest face of Ailefroide.

The following year, in 1977, she ascended the American Direct Route (ED1), on the west face of Le Petit Dru in Chamonix.

She came to prominence in the mid-1980s for sport climbing by winning the first major female climbing competitions, and by being the first-ever female to redpoint a sport climbing route with Fleur de Rocaille in 1985, and an route with Choucas in 1988.

From 1980 to 1985, Destivelle focused on studying physiotherapy at the Ecole de kinésithérapie de Paris, and then working full-time as a physiotherapist.

In 1985, Destivelle became a professional climber, which happened almost by accident after being asked to do a climbing film, E pericoloso sporgersi, that captured her making the first-ever female ascent of the 1,000-metre multi-pitch sport route Pichenibule in Verdon, which was only the second-ever female ascent in history of a route; after the film, she was offered sponsorships.

In 1985, Destivelle made what was thought to be the first-ever female breakthrough into the grade with Fleur de Rocaille, however, its grade was subsequently softened to 7c+/8a.

Destivelle initially rejected competition climbing, signing the 1985 Manifeste des 19, but then changed her mind and won at Sportroccia in 1985, the first international climbing competition (held in Bardonecchia and Arco), which later became the Rock Master annual competition.

Later that year, she fractured her pelvis in a fall in Chamonix.

Destivelle recovered and in 1986 set new records by becoming the first-ever female to climb an route with Fleur de Rocaille (later downgraded to 7c+/8a), and winning again at Sportroccia, beating her main rival Lynn Hill.

1988 would be the pinnacle of Destivelle's sport climbing career when she redpointed Choucas in Buoux, the first-ever female ascent of an graded route.

She had already repeated several routes that year in preparation, including Rêve de Papillon, Elixir de Violence, Samizdat, and La Diagonale du Fou.

She also beat her fellow French rival Isabelle Patissier to win her third Sportroccia title.

In 1989, Destivelle won the first-ever international climbing competition held in the US, and organized by Jeff Lowe at Snowbird, Utah.

During this period, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world along with Lynn Hill, however, in 1990 she retired to focus on alpine climbing.

In 1990, she made the first-ever female alpine ascent of the Bonatti Pillar on the Petit Dru, which she followed up in 1991, by becoming the first-ever female to create a new extreme alpine route, also on the Petit Dru, which was named Voie Destivelle in her honor.

She made Himalayan and high-altitude ascents such as Nameless Tower in 1990, the southwest face of Shishapangma in 1995, and the south face of Peak 4111, in Antarctica, in 1996.

In 1990, Destivelle finished third at the annual Snowbird international climbing competition and decided to retire from competition climbing to focus on mountaineering and alpine climbing.

In 1990, Destiville came to international attention with the first female ascent of the Bonatti Pillar (TD+: 5.9 A1) on the southwest face of the Petit Dru, which she completed as a free solo in 4 hours; in 1955 Walter Bonatti spent six days on the route as he made what became regarded as one of the most famous ascents in history.

In 1990, Destivelle went on an expedition with Jeff Lowe and David Breashears to try a new route on Nameless Tower in the Karakoram, however, poor conditions forced them to change plans and they instead made the second free ascent of Yugoslav Route (VI 5.12a) (and featured in the 1990 climbing film, Nameless Tower).

In 1991, Destivelle completed one of her most notable alpine climbing feats by opening up a new route on the west face of the Petit Dru, named the Voie Destivelle (or Destiville Route) (VI 5.11b A5).

Her 11-day free solo of the route, which bears her name in her honor, was captured in the film 11 Days on the Dru, and covered widely in the international media.

Destivelle turned her attention to completing the free solo climb, in winter, of the three greatest north faces in the Alpes (the winter "North Face Trilogy" of Ivano Ghirardini).

From 1992 to 1994, Destivelle became the first female to complete the winter alpine free solo of the "north face trilogy" of the Eiger, the Grandes Jorasses, and the Matterhorn.

As well as her Alpine free solos, she made other notable free solos, such as the Devils Tower in 1992, and the Old Man of Hoy in 1997.

She started in 1992, making the first female solo ascent of the 1938 Heckmair Route (ED2) on the north face of the Eiger in 17-hours (and featured in the 1992 climbing film, Eiger).

In 1992, Destivelle went on another expedition with Jeff Lowe to climb the north ridge on the north face of Latok I, in the Karakoram, but was forced back due to severe storms.

In 1993, she made the first female solo ascent of the Walker Spur (ED1: 5.8 A1) on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses.

In 1993, she went on an expedition to the west face of Makalu with Jeff Lowe and French mountaineering guide, Erik Decamp (who would later become her husband).

Lowe tried an alternative solo route while Destivelle and Decamp tried the West Pillar, however, both groups were unsuccessful due to severe snowfall.

In 1994, she completed the winter solo trilogy climbing the Bonatti Route (ED2/3), on the Matterhorn north face.

In 1999, she completed the first-ever female free solo of the Brandler-Hasse Route (ED-: 5.10c A0), on the north face direct of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo; her last major alpine climb.

In 2007, she was made a Knight of the Legion of Honour, and in 2020, became the first-ever female recipient of the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award.

Catherine Destivelle was born in Oran, in French Algeria, to French parents, Serge and Annie Destivelle.

Catherine was the eldest of six (four sisters Florence, Sophie, Martine, and Claire, and one brother Hyacinthe).

Her father was an amateur climber and mountaineer.

As a young teenager, her family moved to Paris, France, where she attended the Lycée Corot in Savigny-sur-Orge.

At the age of 12, Destivelle became a member of the Club alpin français, and started bouldering in Fontainebleau, multi-pitch big wall climbing in Burgundy, and alpine climbing in the Massif des Écrins.

She is the subject of several documentaries, including Rémy Tezier's, Beyond the Summits, which won the best feature-length film award at the 2009 Banff Film Festival.